Tuesday, 5 November 2024

A few days in Jamshedpur, Tatanagar

“Jamshedpur! What’s there to see!” exclaimed a couple of my friends, philosophers and guides when I mentioned my travel plan to them. Well, to be very honest, this wasn’t my first choice either. It was more of a “IRCTC” decision that I humbly obliged by. I spent a restless Sunday afternoon foraging for tickets to Murshidabad for the weekend after but with no luck and little patience, I grabbed whatever vacant seats were available to whichever destination. This was how I landed in Tatanagar on the following Saturday morning.

Near Jubilee Park

Now, there has been too many discussions about this place. This is the hometown of some of my distant relatives and one of my “friends, philosophers and guides” that I earlier mentioned. The advantage of this is I had complete leisure and didn’t have to think twice to arrange or plan anything. He pretty much did it all. He suggested the train tickets, timings, arranged the hotel, restaurants, cars, autos. At one point, I doubted if he runs a travel agency as a secret business on the side.

Vande Bharat reached Tatanagar right on time and I met my friend who was on the station waiting for his outbound train to Kolkata. It was a brief few minutes which got me richer by two homemade coconut naru-s and few broad smiles. He had already got the auto waiting for us outside the station. So, my parents, aunt and I hopped in within the next few minutes and headed towards the hotel. After a quick shower, we then, took the auto again for local sightseeing.

Outside Bhuvaneswari Temple

The auto (bigger and sturdier than the ones in my city) cruised along the smooth and clean roads of Tatanagar (a welcome sight when you are visiting from the busy streets of Kolkata), crossing the Tata Steel Gate, the main hospital, large green parks, cycle paths, sports centres, etc. Our first stop was Bhuvaneswari temple which is in Telco, a bit far off from the main centre, Bistupur. It was closed during the noon when we visited. The temple looked like a simplified version of the gorgeous South Indian temple style. We walked around a bit and then went back to Bistupur for lunch at a restaurant near Khaogali (literally translates to the food street that comes to life in the evenings). 

At the Ghat in Domuhani

After lunch, we went near the river at the Swarnarekha Domuhani Sangam Ghat.  A quiet, serene place to sit and let the time and the water flow by. The river side was nice and cool and sitting on the steps in the ghat created a sleepy lull on us. After a while, as we stepped out of the shade, it felt very hot. The auto gave us a tour of the neighbourhood near the small airport that is apparently operational for the Tata company officials only. Diwali being just over, we saw a local Kali Puja pandal where children drawing competition was on when we visited.

Inside Jubilee Park

After this, we went back to the hotel for some rest. As soon as the Sun dimmed down a bit, we were back on the street again and this time, we first went to the Sai temple followed by the Diamond Park and the Jubilee Park. The parks’ reputation is well deserved – big green area with carefully curated trees, gorgeous garden and a lovely display of a series of fountains dancing (literally!) in many colourful lights. 

Inside Jubilee Park

The Diamond Park had a big diamond shaped lattice, made of Tata steel. It is said to commemorate Dorabji Tata who had purchased the famous Jubilee diamond from a Paris exhibition in the 1900s as a gift for his wife but later both the wife and the husband sold the diamond to save the Tata Steel company from bankruptcy.

Diamond Lattice inside Diamond Park

We ambled through the park, crossed the road to the other side towards the lake and made our way into a light and sound show. It was too much of light for me! The sharp laser beams were a bit shocking for my eyes, but my ears were happy when A.R Rahman’s songs came on.

Steel structure design inside Diamond Park

After the show, we went back to the khaogali to feel the evening buzz. For dinner, we went back to the same restaurant we had lunch in the afternoon because we claimed to be creatures of habits, and the food was that tasty and we were lazy to exercise our brain to find a new option! The dinner however was extremely spicy, and the brain refused to go back to the same place the next day!

Our next morning started with a breakfast buffet at the hotel. With mediocrity at its best, we stuffed ourselves so much that even the mention of food was repulsive for the next few hours. We hired a car today. Our driver looked merely a teenage boy who constantly had a biri tucked in the upper lobe of his right ear! Turned out, he was from West Bengal, Midnapur district! His accent was totally different though. The teenage blood rush to drive fast and past everyone else was extremely evident.

Chandil Dam

We drove straight to the Chandil Dam built across the Subernarekha river. This area is part of the Chotanagpur plateau crumpling up the land to form little hillocks in and around the river. The dam is built hold the water at one side which forms a big lake. It was nice to walk around the lake, shaded by tall trees. 

Walking around Chandil Dam

They had speed boating in the lake and when we asked how long they will take us out for. “5 minutes” – they laughed. We laughed too. It was a good joke. But it was only after five minutes, we realised that the joke was upon us! Nonetheless, it was good five minutes!

Speed Boating

After this, we then drove along the highway towards the Dalma forest. On the way, my friend had recommended for having lunch at Giridhari Dhaba. We did see the Dhaba but couldn’t bring ourselves to eat even a bite. Digestive hormones were still at work! So, we dashed off to Dalma. We paid to take the car right up to the top. It was dusty, bumpy off-roading on the narrow winding paths through the forest. At the top, there was a cave-like structure which doubled itself as a Shiva temple. There was also a Hanuman temple and lots of real monkeys too. Sadly, we didn’t see much wildlife apart from monkeys, cows, crows and on our way down, spotted a couple of deer. At the gate, however, a big black elephant was chained to a post and getting fed big stubs of banana and bamboo tree. He didn’t mind the chain so long as there was food. He looked quite strategic in putting its one foot on one end of the stubs whilst holding the other end with his second foot and using his trunk to break the bamboo into sizeable chunks. Good show!

At the entry gate to Dalma Forest

Even though it was hot in the afternoon, choosing this time to be in the shaded forest was a good call. By the time we were done, Sun was heading towards the horizon and we found ourselves at the Dimna Lake at sunset. A path is laid out along one stretch of the lake to walk on. Here, we found a little water sports centre founded by Tata. Though no sports were on at that time, it did pique my interest.

Walking around Dimna Lake

On our way back to the hotel, we visited our distant relatives’ house whom I met for the first time i.e. if you would excuse my childhood amnesia. And after a bit of chit-chat, laughs and jokes and tea, we headed back towards Bishtupur.

The streets had a festive vibe due to the upcoming Chatth Puja and election, both! Lots of colourful frills and flowers and bottle gourds and bananas were getting sold on the side of the streets for Chatth whilst lots of matadors blew their horns and trumpets to campaign for the upcoming election. The matadors boasted the party symbols which varied from gas cylinders, baby walkers, shower tubs and beyond!

The Temple in the shape of a chariot.
Or did the horses read the election signs!

As dinner time approached, we were back in Khaogali again. Because life is all about food! My mother and aunt had pau bhaji from a vendor and even though I wanted to try litti chokha, I had to give it a miss. We went to restaurant called ‘Novelty’ instead. It looked very popular. I never expected we would have a waiting queue in Jamshedpur! After waiting for about 15minutes, our turn came. We had ‘Kukkad Jungli Bhatti’ (country chicken). It was surprisingly yum!

The Ramnarayana Temple

Next morning, we made some quick visits to the Kalibari and a nearby temple (a traditional setting with a tempting green golf course beside it), a Shani temple (a construction in progress with very detailed intrinsic design. We saw a Shivalinga getting worshipped there with milk dripping in uniform droplets from a narrow tube like holding, held with firm, stiff fingers by one of the devotees) and then a Ramnarayana temple (built in the shape of a chariot with a small park behind it) before heading to the railway station.

Golf course near Kalibari

It was our last day of this short trip. As expected, and warned beforehand, our train was late by an hour. We refreshed in the railway lounge and then in due time, boarded the outbound Vande Bharat train for our journey back to Kolkata.

A short, quick impulsive gateway to Jamshedpur - nothing too majorly exotic but all quite pleasant. The city definitely makes you appreciate the legacy that’s Tata 😊

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