Monday 14 May 2018

Swanage Again...Wake up Slow :), England


May 2018.

It's amazing how the same place can offer so many new things, new experiences every time you visit there. Swanage trip this year was the same. 
We stayed in the same campsite as last year- Herston, although a different pitch in a different field. I'm a lot better now at camping stuff. I did get a sense of achievement after putting up the inner tent up all by my own after our arrival to the campsite. We spread a bed sheet on the field outside the tent and laid flat on the ground, the warm sun gave a comfy feeling after typical English days of dull clouds. We took out our packed sandwich and poured some coffee from the flask. The trip begins. 

After a little refreshment in the campsite, we took a brisk walk into the town, along the beach, up to the Swanage pier and then up the hilly mound by the pier. We laid flat on the grass and had our second sandwich of the day. It was a snoozy relaxed afternoon. After a warm nap on the grass, we strolled to the Peveril point, the watch tower. Two middle aged women were selling homemade cakes and tea there. We bought a slice of ginger pear and rhubarb custard cake each and got ourselves a cup of tea. With our cakes and tea, we then settled down by the edge of a rocky climb down into the sea. As hot as it was, the sea water was super cold. Through the sparkling clear surface of the water, you could see the bottom of the sea floor, its brown green algae, crabs, shoals of fish. It was tempting to jump into the water. We went paddling in the sea but I could hardly stand the cold temperature and had to quickly give up the idea of swimming in the sea. After a lazy day of strolling and eating and snoozing, we did some grocery shopping for our camping dinner - tuna veggie pasta! 

Next morning we woke up to the sound of chirping birds, distant whistles of the steam engine and the increasing warmth inside the tent. It was a cold night. I made all sorts of wrong choice of cloth wear this time. I had got clothes that are okay for soothing temperature. But the days turned out to be super-hot and the nights, quite cold. So my clothes were an absolutely imperfect fit for any time of the day. After a shivering night, the morning sun felt nice. We made our breakfast in the little camping cooker. Usual Coffee, Cereals, fruits, scrambled eggs – Tummy feels fat. We then nipped down to the town and stocked some Cornish pasty for lunch. With Cornish pasties, some avocados, tomatoes, bananas, 3 bottles of water and some sun tan lotion, we were set for a long hiking day. 
We walked along the coast of Swanage to the west, crossing the Durlston castle, the big Globe, the watch tower, the triangulation points, the Tilly Whims Caves and then pausing at the Dancing ledge. We briefly stopped there and had our pre-packed lunch and then walked further to the next bay on the coast. This is the same path we had walked last year. Last year it was mid-June, and the trees and bushes were all over grown and bursting in its full volume. This year, it’s still spring in the greens, albeit beautiful. It was fun remembering the events of last year along this walk and adding the newness to the memories. 
On our way back, a big herd of cattle blocked our way. Big cows with their babies – funny how motherly hormone made them look quite aggressive. I had a real bad knee from my last hike in Italy and on our way back, I felt my knees going so weak that I could fall down at any moment. Thankfully, I made it back to the town. 
We sat in the beach with an ice-cream cone resting my knees and let the restless beach entertain us peacefully. Just when the sun was going down, we returned to our campsite with provisions for that night’s dinner – chicken veggie pasta! We like variety. J

I woke up very early the following morning. I freshened up, took a shower and then crawled back into the bed. ‘Wake up Slow’. J My recent favourite is Jack Johnson. We stayed in the tent, lazily listening to Jack Johnson songs until mid-morning. I couldn’t have had a more perfect morning. With a slow lazy pace, we got up and started making our usual breakfast and packed lunch. It was a different walking route today that I haven’t done before – the coastal cliff walk to the Old Harrys rock. Last time, we took a boat ride to the Old Harrys. This time, we decided to climb and walk on top of it. 
We climbed up the cliff from a little village on the edge of the town of Swanage and then did a circuit on the top of the cliffs and climbed down from a further point straight into our campsite. It was beautiful with its chalky cliffs, pretty yellow flowers, vivid greens, deep blue sea and the view of the Poole harbour (apparently, the largest natural harbour in Europe) and the Studland peninsula. 
I absolutely love sitting on top of these cliffs, amidst nature and have food with such exhilarating yet peaceful view in front. After lunch, we climbed down. There was a steep chalky bit with loose rocks and I was a bit scared at this bit with my weak knees and funny nerves. My legs were almost dead by the time we walked back to the campsite. It was very hot this afternoon. We cooled down under the shade of a big horse-chestnut tree with a cup of tea and lazy chats. 
In the evening, we drove to the Durdle Door, a very popular and very tourist spot. The rock formation and the adjacent coves are very pretty and tempting and I had planned to swim in these coves but the crowd was tiring. To get away from so many tourists, we took the un-popular steep road that climbed up to the top bit of the cliff and walked along that top edge. Smart move, I would say. View still the same but less people on top – perfect! We drove back to Swanage again and got ourselves some fish n chips – quintessential English dinner. We sat by the beach and had our very greasy fish n chips whilst fighting the hungry sea gulls and looking down at the green-brown algae through the clear blue water at the same time.
This was the last day of the Bank holiday weekend and when we came back to the campsite, it was just our tent and another tent in the far corner of the field. We had the whole field to ourselves to scream, shout, laugh out loud, drive with open car doors, and do whatever you like!  
Next morning we were due to leave. We took our time. Soaking into the warmth of the sun and the zing of the greens, having fun at the wide open field with no one around, we took lazy pleasant steps to take our tent down, pack things up and get ready to drive off again. On our way back to the ferry point, we stopped at Studland (a bit of the land that’s sticking out into the sea). And guess what? This bit of the land is nothing but a sandy beach – a proper sandy beach! Ah it reminded me of home, of beaches in India. It had proper sand dunes, cactus-y greens, variety of sea shells and sea mosses, little crabs and loads of sand patterns made by lug worms. We actually witnessed a particular lug worm making narrow sand patterns as it swiftly moved through the sand. As you follow the curve of the beach, you come around the pointy turn of the land and see the Old Harrys rocks sticking out in the distance at the beginning of the other coastal turn.


Ah I loved it. I love this bit of England. The beauty in this south coast of England is not loud or aggressive. It’s subtle, charming, and quaint. I know I can never get bored of this place.

Madrid, Spain

April 2017.


This is the second time I’m in Spain. The first time was Barcelona, by the beach but this time it’s more central. It’s Madrid, the heart of Spain. And my trip was a cultural tour of old and new Spanish extravaganza!

The long weekend of 4 days was a perfect short n sweet break. Away from the cold dull winter days in England, the Spanish sun welcomed us in its full warmth.

We stayed in an underground basement flat serviced by an Airbnb in the Central Madrid, just 2minutes away from The Palacio Royale. The flat had signs of an old building with its big heavy doors, metal locks and gates, winding stairs and most interesting of all, a huge tunnel impression on one of the walls in our room. Our host confirmed it was indeed an underground tunnel back in the old days. Now, it has been refurbished with modern amenities.


Our b&b was just around the palace. On our first day, we walked around the Palace and to the plazas and sols. The city of Madrid is full of open square-shaped plazas lined up with many cafes and restaurants, murals. People were busy walking, singing on their own, having beers and strolling around in the warm sun in the Palacio Real and Plaza Mayor.


We dressed up in Spanish folk costumes, had churros & chocolate in one of the cafes in the plaza, made our way through the busy squares and soothed ourselves with Spanish Margarita. My first night’s dinner was a traditional paella but I couldn’t gulp it down my throat. My friend loved it, so I’m not sure if it was the food or it was just me but the disgusting taste of that particular plate of paella has instilled a fear of paella in me.


The second day was a more elaborate walking tour. We started our day with the Palace Real which is famous for its imposing structure and ornamental rooms and gardens. Walking away from the Palace Real, we made our way to the Temple of Debod. This turned out to be one of my most favourite places in Madrir. This is a temple to the Egyptian goddess Isis. The story goes when Spain assisted Egypt in an event of flood in the river Nile, the Egyptian government gave this temple to Spain as an expression of gratitude. This place is beautiful with its unique architecture and serene garden around it. Walking further around, we got to the Plaza de Cibeles and then Plaza Mayor. Apparently, during the Spanish inquisition, many accused heretics met their death in the Plaza Mayor. A few minutes’ walk from the Plaza Mayor takes you to Madrid’s most popular shopping destination for local foods and delicacies. It is also a popular area for nightlife as well. Speaking of nightlife, the Gran Via is the Broadway of Madrid and is known as ‘the street that never sleeps’. Located right in the centre of the city is Puerta de Sol or Gate of the Sun. It is a crossroad and in the centre stands a statue of a bear and a strawberry tree. This statue is famous in Madrid. I still have no idea why that statue is so symbolic but it was funny and I did take a touristy picture in front of that. I remember the first day we were there, loads of people were lining up on both sides of the roads waiting for something big to happen. We waited there for an hour or so, nothing happened till then and we gave up in the end. So the wait still remains a mystery. Also, worth mentioning is a Hagen Daz shop right at the corner of this crossroad. If you are walking around the streets of the city of Madrid for the whole day in high heat and sun, a Virgin mojito from Hagen Daz is your best cool-down option. My friend loved it so much, we ended up going there for that same drink continuously for the next three days. 

Back from a busy city tour all day long, we had our Flamenco night planned on that same evening. We got back, freshened up, changed to smart dressing and started for the Flamenco dinner. It was awesome. The energy is just amazing! We sat there awestruck at the performance that flowed through the entire evening. The wine and the food was equally delicious. It was a proper posh nosh up. I was under the spell of Flamenco dancing for few days after that evening and even till now to some extent. The energy, the strength and the team work is just superb!

Next morning, we went to the Retiro Park locally known as the Parque del Buen Retiro or El Retiro. It began as a monastery in the 1500s but was later expanded to a park. It is a 350 acres spread of garden, nice shady trees, statues and monuments of Spanish kings, band stands and a large artificial pond where you can hire a kayak or a canoe. We did boating in that pond, enjoyed an impromptu performance by a band of musicians playing trumpets and drums and strolled around the garden in a lazy pace. We sat outside a café enjoying the birds and the green and had a Spanish tortilla before heading back to our b&b.

Now this day was important. It was not only my birthday but also that same evening was our ticket to the Bull Fighting arena. I was super excited. Bull fighting as I understood is a sensitive debatable topic even in Madrid. But personally, I was amazed. The vigour, the confidence and the charm with which the matador stands in front of the angry bull in an open arena with no one around and plays with the bull is just mind blowing. Kudos to all those people who stood their ground where I can only imagine myself being scared. The dying of the bull was not a pretty sight but the matadors just stole the show with their skill and charm. I don’t know how eager I will be to watch another of this show but it was definitely a worthwhile watch and I wouldn’t have missed my chance.



The last day of our trip was an easy stroll and a repeat visit to our favourite spots in the city. We walked up to the Temple of Debod. I really wanted to see a sunrise there but couldn’t really make it. I would highly recommend it though. We went to the Chocolateria San Gines – the most popular churros shop and treated ourselves with some last moment churros and chocolates. We went to the top of the Bar Mirador from where the whole city unfolded itself. It was a nice spot up in the roof with artificial gardens and deck chairs. There are many pretty rooftop terraces in Madrid which gives nice view of the city skyline. However, the sun was high and as much as we love the Sun, we were a bit fried towards the end of our trip. We settled down under the shade of the trees in the garden of Palace Real and spent some lazy lovely time chatting with each other. Our bus to the airport was due in the evening and as the clock turned 4, our trip time was up.

I loved Madrid because it gave me some unique experiences. Bull fights, Flamenco show, Spanish margarita and the Spanish sun – it is easily one of my most treasured trips!

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