Sandakhphu - Phalut Trek

Now call me a savage or an ape but it stifles my breath to keep myself contained within the four walls of concrete. Hence the desperation to make it up with Mother nature. Year 2020’s Covid 19 was the biggest obstacle on the way. A couple of weeks’ of intense confusion and uncertainty finally lead me to the amazing Sandakphu-Phalut Trek.

Sleeping Buddha on the way from Sandakphu to Phalut

I have never really wanted to do this trek because of the immense popularity and the surge of tourists it sees every year. But I realise this now - what a fool I would have been if I never did this! This year was different. There was not a single soul to be seen on the way. Our guide had four of us on his trail and apart from us, I could spot another group of three and that was about it. Perfect!

On arriving at the Bagdogra airport, things started to feel normal. Covid seemed to be a distant nightmare and trekking seemed to be a jolly good possibility. I took a ride to Maneybhanjan where the local Highland Guide and Porter’s office was located. After a brief enquiry, things were sorted – a guide, couple of other loners like me and a ticket to the Singalila National Park.

Map of Singalila National Park Trek Routes

We got into an age old classic Landrover to drive up to Tumling. This drive was terrifying. The jeep road all along this route was steep, narrow, rough and broken enough for an atheist like me to start praying for life. Thankfully, I was half asleep the whole time. An overnight stay at the airport, early morning flight, 4hours journey to Maneybhanjan and then another hour of this bumpy ride to Tumling – nothing could keep my eyes open.

Garibas Village on the way from Tumling to Sandakphu

Reaching Tumling was a refresher. We stayed at the Shikhar Lodge. It was a comfy accommodation on the side of the mountain slope with a view of Kanchendzonga in the distance. You can also see the Tonglu top from here. To our dismay, the fog blocked the view of the mountain peak that day but to my delight, I enjoyed the eerie mystic feeling of a foggy mountain evening. We walked to the top to check out the sunrise viewpoint and pottered around aimlessly along the grassy meadows and few randomly placed stupas.

Greens and Blooms at Tumling

The next morning, we woke up sharp at 4:30 and went out for the sunrise. It was bluish dark and colder than I expected. With locked knees, we started climbing up the road and just then a couple of dogs started barking ferociously at us. We ran back to our room. The guide later told us we made a good choice because that dog apparently had a habit of biting people!

On the way from Tumling to Sandakphu

After a sumptuous breakfast of homemade Tibetan bread, we started our walk from Tumling to Kalipokhri. It was a 13KM walk along the winding roads of hilly jungles full of silver pines, rhododendron bushes, magnolia trees etc. There were glimpses of blue misty sky enticing us with the hidden jewel of Kanchendzonga behind the fog. We stopped at Garibas – a Sashastra Seema Bal camp for a cup of black tea before starting the steep climb up to Kalipokhri.

KaliPokhri

In Kalipokhri, the scene changed completely. It greeted us with a lake (pokhri) that’s assumed to be sacred. Apparently, the tale tells that the water in this lake never freezes, no matter how cold it is. The Buddhists consider this as a holy lake and have a few colourful flags tied along the lakeside with a few incenses filling the area with an aroma. The rugged green slopes circled around the lake. We were chilling by the lake just when a bright ray of sun hit us amidst the otherwise foggy weather. Ah, the sun had peeked, finally, gifting us the beautiful sunset view amongst the green mountains and the white fluffy cloud!

Sunset at Kalipokhri

The night at Kalipokhri was freaking cold. The hunger made it even colder. After the 13KM walk with no lunch on the way, tummy was growling for some fodder. We were staying at a little homestay called Pandim and the owners were the usual warm hilly people. I can’t say this enough – how much I love the people up in the mountains – smiley, warm, always eager to help and they treat you as their own. They prepared a piping hot meal for us. I don’t care much about the taste (it wasn’t the yummiest to be honest) but it was hot, filling and served with care.

View at Kalipokhri

The morning at Kalipokhri was what we had been yearning for - clear blue sky with bright sunshine. I peeked through the window and the view made me jump out of bed with a newfound enthusiasm. We started our 2^nd day of 6KM climb from Kalipokhri to Sandakphu. The start of this stretch was a slow gradient, getting steeper and then quite steep towards the end. But ah the reward!

1KM climb to Sandakhphu

After making it through the final stretch at Sandakphu, we made ourselves comfortable in the Sherpa Chalet – a proper hotel at the top. I was hungry like a hound. I fumbled through my backpack and gobbled down half a bag of nuts, a pack of biscuits and then ordered an omelette and tea and was still thinking of what to eat next! It was pretty cold up here. I slipped under the duvet and sat by the window. Almost knowingly, the Kanchedzonga peeked from behind the cloud just on time. The Sleeping Buddha made its magical appearance.

Kanchendzonga!

We walked half a KM in the afternoon to enjoy the sunset. The yellow orange glow on the snowcaps of Kachendzonga was mesmerising. And this view stayed with us all along the rest of the trek. The next morning when we woke up at the dawn break, the same orangish light reflected from the snow peak. The orange turned to yellow and then as the daylight broke, the white blue jewel of the snow-covered peaks started glistening. It was breath-taking.

The Peaky Horizon of Phalut in the Morning Glow

The 3^rd day of the trek was the longest. It was a 21KM stretch from Sandakphu to Phalut. We started early in the morning. The usual carry on pack on this walk was boiled eggs and potatoes! We gathered some of that from the hotel and started our walk. This bit of the walk was mind-blowing.

On the way to Phalut

I know Sandakphu is probably more popular, but I would be damned if I didn’t do Phalut. You turn your eyes at any direction and its just magic all around. We walked amidst rolling green hills and meadows. There were vast stretches of spectacular undulations with a constant reminder of the sparkling snowy peak up in the sky. On the way, we saw a few local shepherds, a few yaks and also spotted a wooden makeshift room which the guide told us was a cheese-making area. Apparently, they make cheese from Yak’s milk there.

Green zest - Way to Phalut

Our first stop on the 3^rd day was Thakum. In the middle of nowhere, this place boasted of a single forest cottage and a view of wilderness. We had our boiled egg and potato pack and some black tea. After spending some time there and catching our breath, we continued the walk. 

Near Thakum - On the way to Phalut

The next stop was Sabargram – which was at the mark of 14KM on the day. After this we headed towards Phalut. The views started getting more and more beautiful. Our legs were cramping up now. Nearing the end of 3days walk and a big stretch of the day from early morn was starting to take a toll on us. We kept dragging ourselves up and then suddenly a view of the Phalut top unfolded before our eyes. Bathed in the yellow light of the setting sun, the green solid mound of the Phalut top was enticing. This last stretch was again getting steeper, but we kept going.

Phalut top at Sunset

The sun started setting. It was a walk amidst a display of different colours on the sky and on the slopes of the mountains and then gradually it became dark. We put our headlamps on and trudged along. When we reached the top, the dark night with twinkling stars welcomed us.

Horses grazing the foggy meadows

There were only two places to stay at the Phalut top – GTA dormitory and A forest cottage. The forest cottage was already occupied, so we made our way into the GTA dorm. There was no electricity at this place. They lit a single candle in a huge dorm room. The whole area was spooky and to top it, it was frigging cold. I sat in the bed with my hands and feet shaking in the cold and fought hard to keep my eyes open until dinner. At about 8 in the evening, we went out into the kitchen. I was wearing three layers and yet my body was still trembling out of cold and hunger and tiredness. The kitchen felt warm with the oven burning and hot food getting prepared. There was rice and dal and papad and some veggie. I mixed them up and slurped the whole lot in a jiffy. Hot and filling – that’s the only two things I was looking for, I presume!

Phalut abode in the middle of greenness!

The next morning in Phalut was exhilarating. We started climbing up to the sunrise viewpoint at 5 in the morning. The golden glow welcomed us at the top as it slowly started spreading its warmth on the entire stretch of the Himalayas. 

Stupa marking the Indo-Nepal border at Phalut

The Kanchendzonga, Kumbhakarna and Pandim peaks forming the Sleeping Buddha at one end and the chunk of peaks along with neatly shaped equilateral triangle like Mt Everest at the other end with the three peaks of Seven Sisters in the middle created the most exciting horizon I have ever seen! The colours of the rising sun added the extra spoonful of spell to the range of peaks.

Phalut top with Sleeping Buddha at the backdrop

I didn’t want to come back from Phalut. Some places are meant to be stayed and soaked in. Phalut was definitely that kind of a place. 

Stupa marking the border between India & Nepal

Another such place was our next day’s stopover – Gorkhey village. It’s the prettiest village sitting cosy in the lap of the mountains. After a 15KM climb down from Phalut through tricky mountain canopy, the path suddenly opened to the view of this postcard pic village of Gorkhey. 

Glimpse of Gorkhey village before we climb down there

As we climbed down the steps into the village, we could see loads of home farming done at each step. There was an abundance of blooming flowers of different shapes and colours along with different veggies being grown at every nook and corner of the village. The most commonly noticed veg grown was the – Ash Gourd (chalkumro).

Gorkhey home farming !

Once again, the people of the mountains took my heart away. We were yearning for some aloo paratha as the guide had promised earlier. On arriving at Gorkhey, we realised, they were running out of potatoes. To bring some potatoes from the market was a humongous task as someone would have to do go down to the mountain base and get some and then climb all the way up to the village. But as usual the villagers were the sweetest. They did some internal exchanges and loaned some potatoes from a fellow villager to make us aloo paratha! Oh, the gesture and ooh the taste! Melt my heart!

Pretty stream cutting through the Gorkhey village

I didn’t want to leave Gorkhey either. The small cutesy village with a small stream of river cutting through the middle, a wooden bridge across the river connecting the two zesty green meadows, small cottages adorned with loads of flowers and veggies, the tall pine trees surrounding it gave me jelly legs. With a heavy heart, I said adieu to the village only to be captivated by the next village on the way – Samanden. 

Samandan village view

Visit the classy green looks of Switzerland in the Summer and it looks exactly like this not-so-well-known village of Samanden. I could not take my eyes off the green vast rolls and could not take enough of the fresh crisp smell in the air. Along with this freshness, you could also see stretches of corn fields here, making it even more endearing. Damn my limited holidays!

Smitten at Samanden !

Climbing up and down the hilly roads from Samanden, we gradually approached Srikhola which marked the end of our 5days trek. With another 16KM walk on this last day (which surprisingly took only 5-6 hours), we made it to Srikhola.

With the promise of Next time

With throbbing calf muscles, dry and sunburnt skin and a smitten heart full of loveliest memories, I got into a car to spend a last leisure day at Darjeeling before heading home. The hangover of the amazing Sandakphu & Phalut mountains stay with me until the next one…Sayonara.