No, I am not saying you have to go Croatia to get this
feeling. But this was one of my most treasured experiences which happened to be
during this Croatia trip. We were in the Lokrum Island which is about 20mins ferry
from the old town of Dubrovnik where we had started our trip from. The Lokrum
Island is a small island full of olive groves, rocky coasts, little coves and
sandy beach, a dead sea, an old monastery, a nice shady café trotted by
peacocks and rabbits who run around in the open without a care for anyone. The
peacocks are at times so bolshie I had to walk away from my table in the café
as the peacock was trying to steal the food literally from my grasp. We knew
that Lokrum is a lovely place for swimming and snorkelling, etc. But we somehow
hesitated and didn’t carry our swimming gear with us. But when we reached this
little cove by the Triton cross, we couldn’t resist the temptation. We went in
the water anyway and I had the float of my life :D It was amazing. We sat on
the rocks after coming out of the water until the strong sun scorched our
clothes dry, salty and crispy. We set off on our foot again to conquer the rest
of the island.
Back in the mainland, the old town of Dubrovnik is pretty
amazing as well. The town is surrounded by high city walls and the floors are
all stony. From the central area, you can climb up few steps on all directions
to get to the next upper level and so on and this structure circumvents the
town along the walls. We walked all along the city walls in the scorching heat
of midday. When we climbed down into the shade of the centre, we soothed
ourselves with some ice creams. The ice creams in Croatia are really good and
so are the chocolates, especially the dark chocolates with dried figs and
almonds. I got box of that from the Croatia airport with the leftover kunas (or
kumuknus as my friend calls them :D) and it all just vanished in one evening L We sat in the port and
watched the little fish fidgeting around in the water. The sea water is very
clear in this area.
The evenings in the old town was really rice with a soft
warm breeze, dim lights against the stony town, the bands playing randomly at
some corner or in some restaurant. Not sure why, but we chose to dine in one of
the most expensive restaurants by the port. The location was pretty cool. You
sit outside in the open, looking at the boats and ferries go by, the city walls
lit up by your side and the pianist in the restaurant then entertain you with nice
tippy-tappy music for the entire evening. Pizza and Sea food is Croatia’s
speciality. And when I have that tempting option to try fish, my Bong antenna
goes zing! So there I was having a sea bass and a red scorpion fish! I must
say, even though costly, the fish was just superb!
From one old town to the next, we went from Dubrovnik to
Split by bus. Both me and my friend hate long bus journeys but surprisingly the
coach journeys in Croatia is not that bad. We went to Plitvice lakes by bus as
well and that journey was equally good. Though it’s another question whether
the journey was worth it or not. I really wanted to go to Plitvice lakes as I
have read so much about it in Google and it is one of the most featured places
to go in the country. But I was disappointed. Plitvice is nice with its
waterfalls and green and blue water around the country park but it felt
artificial. There was nothing natural about the place and it felt like a forced
man-made effort to draw tourists and make money. My friend funnily called it a
procession as there were so many people, we were literally walking in a line to
get from one place to the other. Not recommended if you hate crowd.
The old town in Split was more appealing to me. Both the
places are very touristy but the Old Town in Split seemed less commercial, more
yeldy oldy than that in Dubrovnik. It has numerous very narrow lanes that take
you to the main squares. The narrow lanes are laid with tables to eat in
various places, making them even narrower and you would have to squeeze
yourself along the way. In some places, you would find a sudden open area,
mostly again laid with tables or little shops. My favorite was a juice shop
just by one of the gates. It had every possible fruit forming a wall for the
shop. And the juices were very refreshing as well.
My favourite evening in the Old Town in Split was the one
when we had a few drinks in one open courtyard in the town (discussing world
problems I think!!!), strolled down the lanes to find a place to eat and then after
dinner, walked to one of the main squares to find some open live music being
played by one of the pubs. They had thrown a few cushions around and people sat
in the steps listening to the musicians, sipping their drinks. As the ambience
got better and better, people got up and walked into middle of the square and
started dancing causally with their partners and friends. No pressure, No hype,
a simple free-flowing evening. Just the way I like it.
Apart from the Old Town, Split also has a really nice
seafront. You can walk all along the coast by the docked boats and the harbour.
They have lots of palm trees lined up along with benches to sit on. We sat
their every morning having a cup of really bitter coffee (that’s how the
Croatians like it) and a version of pain au chocolat (can’t remember what it’s
called in Croatian). We strolled along the seafront right to the extreme end
where a smallish hill waves a flag on top.
We climbed that hill up (it had around 320 steps towards the
end, it mentioned) and found ourselves pleasantly surprised with the beautiful
views of the city, of the sea around us and of the big Croatian mountains in
the distance. I’m so glad we did this instead of getting lost amidst tourists
again.
There is never a shortage of place to go and you can never
experience a country or even a city within a week. But you do the best you can.
So did us. And the week went by in a flash in the old towns of Dubrovnik &
Split, in the little coves and under the shady plants of Lokrum Island, along
the seafront of Split and port of Dubrovnik, the hilltop of Split and so on.
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