July 2018.
So when I got off the coach in Camborne the next morning, I
was a grumpy self. On top of that it was drizzling out of the blue, not helping
my mood at all. We checked into our pre-booked airbnb which was just a 5minutes
walk from the bus terminus. After a refreshing coffee, we hopped on to a local
bus to St.Ives.
The moment I laid my eyes on the St.Ives and its coastline,
my grumpy mood jumped back to its jovial self. St.Ives is a coastal town, famous
for its surf beaches and you could see many people surfing in their colourful surf
boats. We bought the traditional Cornish pasty and set off on our coastal hike
from St.Ives to Zennor. It is a beautiful hike. The coastline in this western
most part of Cornwall is very rugged with rocky edges, unkempt wild flowers and
bushes, clear blue sea, hidden sandy beach and to our utmost delight lazy seals
on the sea rocks. The views were simply amazing. As we approached towards
Zennor, the hike started becoming challenging. We had to make our own ways
through big boulders and sharp edges. The sleepless overnight journey had also
started taking a toll by this time. And I was kind of grateful that the walk
ended for the day. Where the walk finishes in Zennor, there is a small pub and
a church café in the Zennor village. We refuelled ourselves with some ice cream
and water and got the bus back to Camborne.
After a well deserved sleep that night, the next morning
felt much more energetic. Having done a classic Cornish coastline hike the
previous day, we decided to enjoy a beach trek this time. We headed to Porthcurno,
a very popular and very pretty cove in the southern coast of Cornwall. This
place was again breathtakingly beautiful. The rugged rock green cliffs converge
inland to form sandy beaches inside little coves and there are many such little
beaches all lined up along the coast. On a low tide, you could easily walk
around the cliffs along the beach from one cove to the other. We climbed up the
cliffs on both sides of the Porthcurno beach. On one side, you could walk on
top of the cliffs almost into the sea where few big chunks of rocks stick out,
called the Logan rock. We climbed all over the Logan rock, having fun and
taking in the beautiful view through all our senses. There is also a telegraph
museum there and an open-air theatre called the Minack theatre built on a
granite cliff edge. Apparently Porthcurno was the point where many submarine
telegraph cables were connected. With climbing all the cliff rocks, swimming in
the cold sea water, fighting our hunger with nuts and biscuits, getting burnt
in the strong sunshine and almost getting into the wrong bus, it was an
exciting day.
On our third and final day of the hike, we decided to keep
it relatively easy. We hiked from Tehidy park to the Deadman’s Cove along the Godrevy
Coast and continued along the coast ending the hike in the Portreath Beach
town. This walk started with a pleasant walk through the shady woods, passing
by many streams and ponds and then taking a sharp turn post which we found
ourselves crossing farm lands and getting on to the top of the cliff by the
coast. The walk then continues along the coast by the infamous Deadman’s cove
where the amazing views come with a danger of abrupt rock falls. As we approach
towards the end of the route, we came across two very steep peaks with loose
rocks and a sinister vibe in the atmosphere. The silence due to the focus and
concentration to climb up and down these two peaks was such that it could be
cut through a knife. But with danger comes beauty and magnificence. It was exhilarating.
We ended our walk in the Portreath beach where we could see many young boys and
girls doing cliff jumping and coasteering. The beach was unique with its little
caves formed by the cliff formations. There was a fishing dock as well where we
met a fisherman who had just got lucky with a bucket full of big lobsters,
still alive when we met them. It was a bustling little town. We spent some time
idling around, having more ice creams and watching the busy beach.
Our short hiking trip came to end with this and we had to
take an overnight coach back home. Each of the three hikes we did was so different
yet so engaging. Our first hike was a rugged cliff walk by the coast whilst the
second day was more of rock climbing and swimming and the third hike took us
through woods, open farmlands, deadly peaks and bustling fishing town. Each of
these places was so charming that you feel magically refreshed even after a
long tiring day. There are few places I have visited which leave your heart
longing for more and Cornwall definitely tops that list of places.
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